“For everything there is a season, and a time for every purpose under heaven:” Ecclesiastes 3:1
I hope your week is going splendidly. I’ve been breezing through my Sew Easy Sewing Makes for the summer series. Its been such a breath of fresh air for me. Not just because I’ve been flying through my projects list. But also because its been really liberating my thought process around my personal style choices.
For a long time now i’ve been struggling between creating things that I deem wow and blog worthy vs. what is truly my personal style aesthetic. Working through my fabric and pattern stash has given me a framework to focus my individual projects while forcing me to take an internal inventory. And i’m realizing the following:
- Buying fabric is like clothes shopping. You can sometimes purchase things that are a hit and sometimes its a miss.
- I have alot of summer weight woven fabric in bright colors mostly from natural fibers like cotton. (A lot of cotton.)
- I’m not challenging myself to my full potential. I keep buying the same kind of fabric and choose the same kind of projects. Pants are a prime example. I hate working through pants fitting issues. So I tend to stick to making dresses or skirts.
- I want to make things that are really pieces that I can incorporate into my everyday life. Whether they are wow to others or not.
Which leads me to today’s DIY project. I bought Simplicity 8389 last summer because they seemed like an easy pull on pants pattern. It has been lurking in my sewing room for a while and everytime I passed it, I would pick it up and look it over. So finally about 3 weeks ago I decided to bite the bullet and try my hand at pants fitting again.
Fitting palazzo pants is much easier that fitting fitted pants. I created one muslin before going into fashion fabric. What I learned from the first fitting is that I didn’t like the rise of the pants. On the model in the pattern envelope picture it looks like the pants are high waist. But in reality they fit more like a mid-rise. Below is a picture of me in the muslin.
On my curvy pear shape. This isn’t a flattering cut for me in a palazzo pant. So I made a few modifications which I list below:
- Raised the waistline 2 inches only at the side seams and back rise. This made the pants high waist which is more flattering for my shape but it also added length to the back rise. (I didn’t need to add to the front because it would have lengthened too much in the front.)
- Lengthened back crotch curve by 1in. There was bunching at the bottom of my butt where the fabric curves into the crotch. Which was an indicator that I needed to lengthen the crotch curve at the back.
- The waistband was a bit of a challenge. For the following reasons: a. The pattern itself was off by about 1.5 inches too short. So I had to redraft the pattern to make sure it fit. And b. the back band did not stop at the side seams like in a traditional pant. It instead reach around to the front band at the princess lines. Once I put the elastic in it caused a weird gathering and unflattering fit at the side seams. It gave me a bit of a muffin top.
- I widened the waistband from a 1.5″ wide band to be a finished width of 3″. I also re-drafted the front and back bands to sew together at the side seams. This gave me a more flattering fit at the waist.
- I took in 1 inch at both inseam and outer seam starting at the hip. There was too much fabric in the leg.
- The last thing I did was more out of trying to save my final project because the modifications created a great waistline, and fit in the seat. However, there was way to much room in the front rise. So I opted instead to release the front pleats and convert the entire waistband to an elastic waistband instead of how the pattern was originally drafted and removed about 7 inches of ease from the front waistline.
My final is more of a wearable muslin. Even with the emergency modifications there is about an 1.5″ of ease from the front crotch that needs to be removed. However. I really like the way they came out and wore them to church styled in the way they are featured below. These pants have some great styling possibilities and i’ll be posting those as #OOTD on my Instagram page throughout the week. So stay connected.
Photo credits: My beautiful daughter Asabea..
Well that’s all for now! Until next time….